Bird Nerd
Highlights & Remarkable Spots
Malheur Lake / @Start
Malheur Lake is one of the largest inland marshes in the United States varying dramatically in size from 500 to 110,000 acres and rarely exceeds 8 feet even during the years of high water. It receives water from the Blitzen and Silvies Rivers, and is predominantly influenced by snowpack.
The waters of Malheur National Wildlife Refuge fluctuate from season to season and year to year.
Looking out over the Refuge headquarters, you may see a vast lake or you may see no evidence of a lake at all. But Malheur is not an actual lake. Malheur Lake is one of the largest inland marshes in the United States varing dramatically in size from 500 to 110,000 acres. The lake’s water level and size is determined by how much water it receives from the Blitzen and Silvies Rivers, the snowpack on Steens Mountain to the south and the Blue Mountains to the north.
Meeks Wagon Train / Near Start
The Meeks Wagon Train of 1845, led by frontiersman Stephen Meek, was an ill-fated attempt to find a shortcut to the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Approximately 1,000 emigrants with 200 wagons departed from the main Oregon Trail near Vale, Oregon, and ventured into the uncharted high desert.
As the wagon train entered the Harney Basin, finding water and feed for their livestock became critical. They camped near Harney and Malheur Lakes, but the alkaline water was unsuitable for humans or animals. The group eventually reached The Dalles, but not before enduring the harsh conditions of the high desert. Reports of deaths during the journey range from 23 to as many as 50. [US Fish & Wildlife Service]
Steens Mountain
Steens Mountain, with a summit approaching
10,000 feet, is a classic fault-block mountain, gently
sloping on its west side, but dropping vertically a
mile to the Alvord Desert on its east side. Snow
melt from the broad western face is carried downhill
by five major streams, which eventually merge to
become the Blitzen River. Over the eons, the river
has deposited many feet of sediment on the valley
floor. These fertile soils, combined with the waters of
the Blitzen River, provide an optimal foundation for
the marshes and wet meadows of the Refuge.
Rattelsnake Butte
Rattlesnake Butte, which appears to your left, has been important to people since prehistoric times. Nearby, a rocky ledge extends across the Blitzen River providing the only natural crossing for miles. This point of access, along with the availability of water and a butte from which to survey the surrounding land, made this an important place for bands of Northern Paiute people who first occupied the Blitzen Valley as early as 9,600 years ago.
Blitzen River Channelization / ~ Miles X to X
The Blitzen River in this secor was straightened and channelized by private landowners starting in 1910. This effort, tied to the Swamp Land Act, aimed to drain meadows for grazing and hay production.
The Swamp Land Act of 1850, initially created to help Louisiana reclaim swamplands through drainage and levee construction, was extended to Oregon in 1860. Although Oregon delayed action until 1870, the program quickly became plagued by political corruption, fiscal mismanagement, fraud, and land speculation.
Buena Vista Overlook / ~ Mile X
Go to the top. Excellent views and kiosk signs.
Buena Vista Ponds
As you look at Steens Mountain from this angle (heading east on the way back), you will see what looks like a rugged chasm on the north side. This is the famous Kiger Gorge, a classic U-shaped valley carved by ice age glaciers. Although the continental ice sheet did not reach this far south, Steens Mountain was high enough to develop its own glaciers, which left the mountain with five U-shaped gorges. Kiger and McCoy Creeks drain from the north side of the mountain, entering the Refuge through the Diamond Valley, the wide gap in the rimrock to your left. Picture: Kiger Gorge north to south. You will be looking into the gorge from the top of the picture.
Sod House Ranch / ~ Mile X
This ranch was the northern headquarters of the 140,000 acre cattle empire of Californian Hugh Glenn. When the Californian Legislature ended open range grazing in 1872, Glenn sent 23 year old Pete French to Eastern Oregon to establish a cattle ranch. French traveled from California with 1200 long horn cattle, six Mexican vaqueros (cowboys) and a Chinese cook to this remote corner of Oregon. Over the next 25 years French acquired property using a variety of methods in the Blitzen, Diamond, and Catlow Valleys to create one of the largest cattle ranches in the United States. The ranch is open to the public from August 15 through October 15. Click for the detailed guide to the ranch.
When We Like to Ride This
Spring to early summer (peak mid-May to mid-June) is especially spectacular at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, with over 130 bird species nesting there and many others stopping to rest and refuel during their northern migration. We highly recommend checking out this guide by Friends of Malheur National Wildlife Refuge for detailed information on when and where to spot specific birds.
Terrain & Riding
The route is mainly flat, with the part through the national refuge on gravel and the return on paved. While on paper, this all seems like it might be a super easy ride, let us offer up two bits of caution: the national refuge had some fresh gravel and some washboard sections which slowed us down a bit. And this area is famous for wind. Also, make sure you look at the hill profile: there’s a rolling hill at the end which rewards you with a “no brakes needed” downhill.
From the starting point, the Narrows RV park, the route heads east on a good paved road that sees little traffic. You pass by ranches and have distant views of Steens mountain. At ~ mile 6 is the Malheur National Wildlife refuge headquarters where the standoff occured. There’s a pull out just past it (you’ll see a big tower) which provides an expansive view of the area below you. The visitor center is also a worthwhile stop to for information on the the area including flora, animals and the history. Be sure to get the Blitzen Valley Auto Tour Route guide.
From the visitor center, go south into the refuge on the gravel road (“bird nerd alley”). This sector is the highlight of the ride. Big views. Thousands of birds. Rabbits. Antelope. And mostly easy riding. You will also cross the Blitzen river several times.
… scan the cottonwood trees for various songbirds, great horned owls, and porcupine. Other species in the area include the cinnamon teal, coyote, deer mice, gadwell, garter snake, great egret, great horned owl, long-eared owl, mallard, mule deer, Northern oriole, Northern shoveler, pied-billed grebe, porcupine, and trumpeter swan. [US Fish and Wildlife Service]
At ~ mile 22.5 make a right onto a gravel road that cuts across the wetland. As you pass by a set of buildings to your left, look for the road leading up to Buena Vista overlook. Go! It has a sweeping birds eye view of the refuge.
After the overlook, make your way onto Highway 205. Yes, it is a state highway, but with little traffic. The views are still good, but diminishing as you get closer to the start / finish. Near the very end, you do the only climb of the day, 300 feet of gain at 3% grade. But you shortly get that all back as you descend easily into the finish.
We have classified this route as a Bandit Route – it has just a bit to much pavement without much payback for our liking. [We have ridden the entire route.] However, if you are a “bird nerd” and you catch the route in prime birding season, you will probably love this adventure.
The Start
Narrows RV Park. Store. Flush toilets.
Lat / Long: 43.258045, -118.958199
Food & Water
- None.
Route Notes
The route starts at the Narrows RV park, which may seem a bit odd. Some may think that the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge visitor center may be a better starting point, but this makes the last half of the ride long and tiresome as you have a 21 mile sector of pavement. By starting at the Narrows, you get a flat 5 miles of pavement for warm up, before taking on the gravel sector. With that, the last paved sector does not seem so long.
If you go during birding season, carry mosquito repellent with you … or move really, really fast!
We recommend a red blinky light for the highway section on the back half of the route.
Love Where You Ride! Learn More
The Friends of the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge are doing some awesome work on the Refuge. They’ve fixed up the Refuge Headquarters Historic Barn, built some cool bird-watching and nature trails, put up signs for the Blitzen Valley Refuge auto tour, and lots more. Plus, they run neat programs like the Artist in Residence-Youth Wildlife Art Program and do events like the National Wildlife Refuge Celebration week every October. If you’re into what they’re doing, think about throwing a few bucks their way. Every little bit helps, whether it’s $10, $25, or whatever you can spare.
Podcasts
Deceptive Waters of Malheur Lake
Located in Harney Basin in eastern Oregon, Malheur Lake sits within the 187,000 acres of Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, an area that is an important wildlife habitat. Aquatic Biologist, [...]
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