At McVay Rock Recreation Area, the Pacific Ocean stretches out in a breathtaking 180-degree view, making it an ideal spot for whale watching. Each year, gray whales migrate past Curry County as they travel between the warm waters of Baja California and the icy seas of Alaska. Brookings offers two prime whale-watching seasons: from October to mid-January, when the whales head south to give birth, and from mid-January to late April, when they return north to the Bering Sea to feast on shrimp and krill. Since gray whales tend to stay close to the shoreline, elevated vantage points like McVay Rock Recreation Area provide excellent opportunities to observe them with the naked eye or binoculars.
Located near the entrance to McVay Rock State Recreation Area on the eastside of Oceanview Drive is McVay Rock, a remnant of ancient volcanic activity or tectonic uplift that characterizes much of the Oregon coast. Over millions of years, the ocean’s relentless wave action shaped the rock into its current form.
The landmark was named in honor of William R. McVay, who settled in the area in 1861. While detailed records of his contributions are scarce, it is known that his homestead was located nearby.
Nestled along the Pacific Coast at the Oregon-California border lies the Easter Lily Capital of the World. This unique region, spanning the Harbor-Brookings bench in Oregon and Smith River in California, produces over 95% of the world’s potted Easter Lily bulbs. The industry began in 1919 when Louis Houghton brought hybrid lily bulbs to the region. During World War II, Japan’s dominance in Easter Lily bulb exports was disrupted, cutting off U.S. supplies. Local growers stepped in, and the region’s ideal climate and rich soils proved perfect for cultivation for growing these iconic trumpet-shaped flowers. Today, ten dedicated farms ensure these iconic flowers brighten homes worldwide.
At mile 9.5, you’ll come across the gravesite of J.P. Wheeler, one of the first white settlers in the Winchuck Valley. Wheeler passed away in 1903 at the age of 63. His homestead was located several miles northeast of this site, across Wheeler Creek from the present-day Ludlum House. The homestead’s location is now marked by an old apple orchard.
Named after the Ludlum family, who purchased the home and property in 1943, the original Ludlum House is believed to have once been a boarding house in early Brookings before being disassembled and relocated. Peggy Ludlum bought the house and property while her husband, Robert, was serving in World War II as an intelligence officer for General MacArthur and Admiral Nimitz in the Pacific campaign.
In the 1960s, the Forest Service acquired Ludlum House and its property. Due to deterioration, the original structure was replaced in 1999 with a new lodging that remains true to the original design and is available for rent year-round.
The picturesque Winchuck River winds through the lush landscapes of southern Oregon, carving its path through Curry County and the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest. Stretching roughly 21 miles, it meets the Pacific Ocean just south of Brookings, Oregon. Along the way, at mile 12.8 of this ride, the river merges with Wheeler Creek—a pristine tributary renowned for its crystal-clear waters and dense, towering forests. This creek serves as a vital habitat for salmon and trout, while the surrounding riparian zones teem with wildlife. Black-tailed deer, black bears, river otters and eagles all thrive here, making this region a haven for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts alike.
This route was funded in part by a grant from the Travel Oregon.
Options:
This ride can be enjoyed nearly year-round. Look for a sunny day with light coastal winds.
Overall, this ride is slightly more demanding than the elevation profile would indicate.
Harbor Brookings Bench Sector / Mile 0 to 1.6
This sector is flat and on smooth pavement. The road does not have a shoulder but when we rode it there was very little traffic. This sector is filled with farm fields and frequent coastal views.
Winchuck Road Sector / Miles 1.6 to 9.9
Similar to the first sector, Winchuck Road has good pavement, no shoulder and light traffic. This entire sector is rolling with little climbs and descents, all the while gaining slightly in elevation. You will have frequent views of the Winchuck River to the right as you ride past farm pastures and into the woodlands.
Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest Sector / Miles 9.9 to 12.8
Turn left and begin a short climb—the steepest of the ride—with the gradient exceeding 6%. The road starts out paved but transitions to gravel/dirt in 0.4 miles. The gravel is hard-packed but potholed. There is a brief 0.1-mile paved stretch at mile 11.
Beyond the Ludlum House, the road becomes rougher, we recommend 45mm tires or wider. This section, from the Ludlum house out to the second bridge, is a favorite part of the ride for us. It showcases moss-covered trees and ferns thickly blanketing the ground.
This entire sector is within the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest. You’ll encounter Douglas fir, red alder, cedar, and deciduous trees like bigleaf maples and white and black oaks. The forest features a mix of mid-growth and old-growth trees.
McVay Rock State Recreation Site. Pit toilets. Also has a small path to the beach with great views!
Winchuck road is an access road to the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest. As with all rides in the Coast Range Mountains, you should expect logging truck traffic. However, we have ridden this route several times and did not encounter any logging trucks.
A couple of things to keep in mind:
We recommend a red blinky light with a rear-looking radar detector for this ride. Something like a Garmin Varia or Trek Car Back.
Shorter
The route can be shortened by about 2.5 miles and 150 feet of gain by making the Ludlum House the turn-around point.
Have you ridden this route? Got a question? Join the discussion!