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Ghost of Ashwood

5 Star Route / Madras, Oregon / Published: May 2017 / Directions
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Hay Creek road near Madras, Oregon
Leading out! / August 2022
Red barn.
Group of gravel cyclists on Hay Creek road.
Two women on uphill on gravel road.
Long straight dirt road.
Rocky gravel road.
There is a bit of chunk in the opening 10 miles.
Basalt cliffs.
The basalt cliffs to the right, ~ mile 8.
Hay Creek Ranch reservoir.
Near Hay Creek ranch, ~ mile 17.
Group of gravel cyclists in the Baldwin Hills.
Painted hills mound.
Dirt road with rock outcropping.
Cattle corral.
Dirt road leading into Ashwood, Oregon.
The descent into Ashwood.
Fire engine of Ashwood & Antelope.
Women at the Ashwood post office.
The small self-help store in Ashwood.
Paved road leading out of Ashwood.
It is all paved now, ~ mile 29.
Horses
Century farm sign.
Pony Butte road climb.
The begining of the 800 foot climb at ~ mile 31.
Cyclist on paved road outside of Ashwood.
Polka dot agate mine sign.
Descending into the canyon on Pony Butte road.
The basalt cliffs along Pony Butte road.
More basalt cliffs.
Yellow truck downhill sign.
Marking the beginning of the last descent, ~ mile 41.
Cycling a downhill near the R2 ranch.
Gravel Girl's ride metrics for Ghost of Ashwood route.
Gravel Girl's ride metrics.
*
Route:
Loop | 44 mi
*
Gain:
4,300 ft
*
Surface:
~ 60% gravel, 40% paved
*
Technical Difficulty:
Demanding
*
Navigation:
Straightforward
*
Locale:
Remote
*
Tire Suggestion:
40 - 45 mm
*
Options:
---

Explore some of the best outback in Central Oregon! You will see so much on this ride. You’ll pedal through the Crooked River National Grasslands, the only national grasslands in the Pacific Northwest. You’ll cycle past majestic cliffs, some of basalt and others painted an array of colors. You’ll ride through the gorgeous Baldwin Hills, location of the historic Hay Creek Ranch. You’ll get to visit the Polka Dot Agate Mine, too, where you might stumble across some beautiful polka dot agates and canyon rim thundereggs, Oregon’s state rock. All the while, you’ll have glorious views of the Cascade Mountains, including Mt Jefferson and Mt Hood.

The closest you’ll come to civilization is the ghost town of Ashwood.

Ashwood, Oregon is recognized as an early 1900s mining boom town, but it seems that most of the brief history of this town is exaggerated or untrue…Newspaper articles and historical photos indicate that if Ashwood had a boom period, it was in 1901 and 1902, apparently coinciding with expansion of the mining operations at the Oregon King…This “boom” was likely short-lived and speculative, however, as the Oregon King Mine was shut down from 1901 to 1903 because of litigation over the title to the mine property. During the short interval the mine actually operated from late 1903 to 1904, it was reported that the rich ore was thinning out…Evidence suggests that Ashwood was nothing more than the site of a small and brief excitement during 1901-1902, and that the town never amounted to much. A 1905 article mentions the newspaper “Ashwood Prospector,” but claims it is printed in the nearby town of Antelope. Another article in 1911 stated that Ashwood’s boom years were long over and that it was “barely on the map.” [Western Mining History]

There are some real, live folks who live in the area. These folks have created a little store of sorts at the old post office that offers an assortment of snacks for cyclists who pass through. They have also set up a picnic and tenting spot with pit toilets. How cool is that? No one operates the store; it is self-help (i.e. on the honor system). In the spirit of Ashwood’s spectral image, feel free to imagine that the proprietor is indeed a ghost. To thank the ghost for his kindness, consider leaving an extra donation in the collection box.  (Note that stocked refrigerator is only open in the summer. )

This ride is demanding, with constant up/down terrain of bald, rolling hills scattered with juniper and sage. Gravel Girl considers this to be “a solid intermediate ride, with no easy parts.” Know that if needed, there is a bailout option a little over halfway into the ride that will shave off 5 miles and 900 feet of climbing.

Read More
Map
Brown = gravel / dirt road
Blue = single track
Red = paved road
Purple = paved bike path
GPX Download   Version 1.0

Highlights & Remarkable Spots

R2 Ranch / @ Start

R2 Ranch

Across from the start there is a red barn and other buildings. They are part of the R2 Ranch complex. The ranch is 47 miles long and, in some places, 22 miles wide. The ranch is built around more than 4,000 acres of irrigated land, 81,000 acres of rangeland with 150 improved springs and 7 year around creeks and ponds, and a 35-acre lake. The ranch carries historical significance. The Cross Keys post office was established on July 8, 1879 at the mouth of Cow Canyon and the bank of Trout Creek (just north on Highway 97 at the beginning of the grade). The ranch was also a stage and freight station in the early days. [R2 Ranch]

Crooked River National Grassland / Entire Route

Group of gravel cyclists on Hay Creek road.

Homesteaders first settled the area in the 1880s, constructing more than 700 homes. By the 1930s, insufficient rainfall and unfavorable economic conditions led to farm failures and land abandonment. By 1935, about 35% of the homesteads were foreclosed upon by federal and private mortgage banks. The government repurchased the land from the remaining homesteaders. The Crooked River National Grassland was created by Congress in 1960 to improve range management and the forage resource. The grasslands, which cover 173,629 acres, include two National Wild and Scenic Rivers: the Deschutes and the Crooked. There are 20 national grasslands across the country, but Crooked River National Grassland is the only national grassland in the Pacific Northwest. [Ochoco National Forest]

Basalt Cliffs / ~ Miles 8.0 and 36.5

Columbia Gorge Basalt Map

The Columbia River Basalt Group (map view) is the youngest, smallest, and one of the best-preserved continental flood basalt provinces on Earth, covering over 81,000 sq miles, mainly in eastern Oregon and Washington, western Idaho, and part of northern Nevada. Basalt exposed on the vertical walls of canyons, coulees, and buttes is visible as a closely-packed array of rock fence posts [or palisades]. These columns formed when the lava cooled and crystallized into basalt rock. When the lava cooled, it shrank. This created vertical polygons, usually five-sided, that separated from their neighbors by cracks. [Wikepedia, HugeFloods.com]

Juniper Reduction / ~ Miles 10.0 to 12.0

Juniper Tree Reduction program

Juniper tree encroachment erodes the health of rangelands by reducing the amount of water available, diminishing soil health, and crowding out native perennial plants that feed wildlife and cattle. As trees become dense, they also fuel hotter and more severe wildfires. Learn more about how Juniper tree reduction programs restore range health and animal habitat.

Hay Creek Ranch / ~ Mile 12.5

Hay Creek Ranch - Baldwin sheep

Hay Creek Ranch and its headquarters will be to your right. For over a century, Hay Creek Ranch has been one of the largest ranch holdings in Oregon and has played a prominent role in the history of central Oregon. The ranch was established in 1873 as the Baldwin Sheep and Land Company. The Dalles-Prineville freight and stagecoach lines ran through the ranch headquarters until about 1912. [Oregon Encyclopedia]

Ashwood / ~ Mile 29.0

Ash Butte grange in Ashwood

The Ashwood area (originally named Ash Butte) was first used by the Native American Sahaptin and Northern Paiute people. After the Sahaptin were forced to move to the Warm Springs Indian Reservation in the 1850s and the Northern Paiute were defeated in the 1870s, settlers moved into the area to raise cattle and sheep. Sheep ranching became an important local industry by 1900 because of the availability of the railroad in nearby Shaniko that facilitated the shipping of wool. Ashwood became a gold- and silver-mining boomtown in the 1910s. However, the minerals soon began to play out, and local residents turned back to ranching and agriculture as the mainstays of their economy.[Wikipedia]

Polka Dot Agate Mine / ~ Mile 35.0

Polka dot agate

Here you will find beautiful polka dot agates and canyon rim thundereggs. The polka dot agate is a semitransparent to semitranslucent agate with suspended round “dots” of contrasting colors with an orbital flat shape. A thunderegg is a nodule-like rock that is formed within volcanic ash layers. Thundereggs usually look like ordinary rocks on the outside, but slicing them in half and polishing them may reveal intricate patterns and colors.

Ride Details

When We Like to Ride This

This route is best ridden late Spring through Fall. Be careful, as the route can be muddy on the dirt / gravel road into Ashwood. This is not a wintertime route, nor a route to do after it rains. You need dry conditions. In the spring, the flowers are in bloom, the grass is green, and the young calves are wandering the fields. But … fall is not shabby either!

Terrain & Riding

This ride has three unique parts. The first third of the ride is the warmup — 5 miles of flat and four short, “punchy” 100 to 300-foot climbs with gradients up to 10 % over the next 6 miles. The second third of the ride has longer climbs — 500 to 1000 feet in height with gradients varying between 5 to 8 percent. The longest climb, 850 feet in 2.5 miles, occurs as you leave Ashwood. The last third of the ride is mostly descending (through a really cool canyon!) with a few “punchy” uphills that will keep you honest.

The roads are clay-based, hard-packed, and for the most part, fast-rolling. There are several short sections of chunk. The descent into Ashwood can be rutted in the spring. It is a technically demanding 3-mile descent, with pitches in excess of 10% and an average gradient of 7%.

On the weekends, traffic is minimal. You may not see a car for half the ride, and even then, you’d likely be able to count all the cars on both hands.

The Start

Lat / Long: 44.780166, -120.965655

The start is about 15 miles northeast of Madras. At the intersection of US Highway 97 and NW Pony Butte Road, look for the road maker to “Ashwood.” On the west side of this road, there is a red barn. Park in the dirt parking lot on the east side of the highway. There are no permits or parking fees.

Food & Water

  • ~ Mile 29 / Ashwood. At the old post office, there is now (as of June 2021) an honor system “store” with snacks, drinks, and ice cream. Bring small bills.
Notes & Options

Route Notes

  1. Be aware that the outdoor water hydrants in the Ashwood area are not safe to drink from. Use the self-service store at the old post office to refuel.  And be careful in that this is a seasonal store which is only open in the summer.

  2. We recommend a red blinky light with a rear-looking radar detector, like a Garmin Varia, for the paved sector.

Route Options

There is one bailout point at ~ mile 26. To shorten the route, turn left on Wilson Creek Road, which is gravel. Here is the GPX file for the bailout route: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/42439025/.

The totals for the bailout route: 39 miles, 3400 feet of gain. Note that the bailout route does not go through Ashwood.

Comments

Have you ridden this route? Got a question? Join the discussion!

Love Where You Ride! Learn More

Ashwood self help store.The people of Ashwood have put up a self-help store at the old post office. It has water, Gatorade, chips, and ice cream. They have also created a picnic and tenting spot with pit toilets. We encourage you to thank them for their support by dropping into the donation box a bit more than what you take. A heartfelt note of thanks is always nice too!

Videos

Columbia River Plateau Basalt

Massive lava flows covered much of the inland Northwest 17 million years ago. The basalt surged to the surface through fissures - like cracks in the bottom of a row boat. The stack of basalt layers is more than 2 miles thick at some locations. Learn a bit more about this geological feature in [...]

Podcasts

All About Basalt with the Rock Doctor

You will find these rocky columnar cliffs in Eastern and Central Oregon, but what exactly happened to form these unique structures? In this podcast, we talk with our resident rock doctor, Dr. Kim Ely.

Controversial Juniper Trees

The juniper tree is an iconic tree across Central and Eastern Oregon and yet, in some places they are being removed. Find out the real scoop about this unique tree from Gena Goodman-Campbell who is the Stewardship Director at ONDA (Oregon Natural Desert Association) where she works to engage [...]

Ridden and Reviewed by:

KevinE

KevinE / Team Dirty Freehub

He should have “Never Stop Exploring” tattooed on his chest! He loves adventures on bikes and is a Co-Founder of Dirty Freehub.

LindaE (aka Gravel Girl)

LindaE (aka Gravel Girl) / Team Dirty Freehub

She loves a good day of gravel, like most people like a good book. She’s always amused by the outdoors and the wild adventures. Gravel Girl is a Co-Founder of Dirty Freehub.

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