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Devil’s Dilemma

5 Star Route / Bend, Oregon / Published: Jul 2018 / Directions
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Leading out! / August 2022
Skyliner's Road
The start of the rugged, ~ mile 10.
Some of the chuck to expect.
Mt Bachelor
Cascade Lakes Highway
South Sister
~ mile 35
Near the head of the Deschutes River.
Ryan Ranch Meadow, ~ mile 71.5
The Shevlin-Hixon Haul Road.
The parking area.
*
Route:
Loop | 76 mi
*
Gain:
6,100 ft
*
Surface:
~ 70% unpaved , 30% paved
*
Technical Difficulty:
Demanding
*
Navigation:
Attention Required
*
Locale:
Remote
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Tire Suggestion:
45 mm+
*
Options:
---

A mixed gravel ride that circumnavigates Mt. Bachelor. The route is scenic, tough and demanding. There are 17 miles of spectacular riding in the high-alpine that has big mountain views and a creek crossing or two. But this sector, starting at mile 10 is rugged, technical and steep.

After the technical sector, there is a 17-mile downward trending paved sector that brings you by the headwaters of the Deschutes River and past several high-alpine lakes, including Elk, Sparks, Lava and Little Lava. The latter two require a small detour off the course.

The ride finishes on the old railroad grade along the Deschutes River. Drop-dead gorgeous!

Note we made a major revision to this route in October of 2022, miles 58 to finish.

Read More
Map
Brown = gravel / dirt road
Blue = single track
Red = paved road
Purple = paved bike path
GPX Download   Version 2.0

Highlights & Remarkable Spots

West Bend Thinning Project / ~ Mile 1 to 6

Westside Bend Project Trees

Along this section of trail you are riding through the West Bend Project, a 15-year forest management effort that includes tree thinning, brush mowing, and controlled burns. The project received Congressional funding through the federal Collaborative Forest Landscape Restoration Act. There are only 20 such demonstration sites nationwide. The goals of the Project are: to restore forest ecosystems, reduce the potential of high-severity wildfires, and provide economic and social benefits to local communities. See the resource page in the right sidebar (desktop) or towards the bottom of page (mobile).

Skyliners / ~ Mile 9

Skyliners Skiing

The lodge was completed by WPA workers in 1936 for the Skyliners Club, a group founded in 1927 to promote winter recreation in the central Oregon Cascades as well as provide search and rescue services. The lodge offered all the amenities needed for large competitions. The area featured two large ski jumps, an expansive cross-country trail system, and downhill skiing. [Bend Magazine]

Three Sisters Wilderness / ~ miles 19 to 27

Three Sisters Wilderness

In 1964, Congress enacted the Wilderness Act, which provides that we preserve and protect designated wilderness in its natural condition. Wilderness areas are places untrammeled by humans that have been set aside for the enjoyment of future generations.

For these miles, you will be cycling along or near the edge of the Three Sisters Wilderness. This Wilderness area is especially valuable because it provides the best example of the effect of glaciation in the Pacific Northwest. [US Forest Service]

Broken Top Viewpoint / ~ mile 24

Broken Top

Broken Top is a complex stratovolcano whose crater measures 0.50 miles in diameter. It is located within one of the most active volcanic areas in the Cascades as well as one of the most densely populated volcanic centers in the world. Over 200,000 years of eruptions, Broken Top produced between 1.7 to 2.4 cubic miles of lava before becoming inactive roughly 100,000 years ago. [Wikipedia]

Sparks Lake / ~ mile 30

Sparks Lake with Mt. Bachelor in background.

Sparks Lake was formed nearly 10,000 years ago. It was originally approximately 700 acres. Today half of that area is now meadow as streams continue to deposit sediment at the north end of the lake. The deepest parts of Sparks Lake reach a depth of 10 feet. [US Forest Service]

Elk Lake Resort / ~ mile 36.5

Elk Lake with boats

The original Elk Lake Lodge and Resort was built in the early 1920s. The lodge, which has been hugely popular with recreationists over the years, has persevered through many challenges. In the mid 1930s, the lake level began to significantly drop, which raised concerns about the lake’s long-term recreational benefit. Fortunately, the lake level was restored by a heavy snowfall in 1940. A year later, the lodge was hard hit by the breakout of WWII. Though the area regained popularity after the war, the resort suffered a year later, in 1955, when nearly 20 feet of snow destroyed many of the buildings. In 1968, 1998, and 2004, the area experienced damage from fires. Through all its setbacks, the resort has endured. To this day, the resort continues to make improvements that are enjoyed by all. [Elk Lake Resort]

Head of the Deschutes River / ~ Mile 42

Head of the Deschutes

You’ll need to pedal off-route (less than 1 mile each way) to see the headwaters of the Deschutes River, but the detour is well worth it. The source of the Deschutes is Little Lava Lake, which covers 138 acres at an average depth of 8 feet. It’s hard to believe that this lake is the source of the same almighty and magnificent Deschutes River that flows through downtown Bend all the way to the Columbia River. [Wikipedia]

Fen Peatland / ~ mile 42

Lava Lakes Fen Peatland

A fen is a wetland characterized by the accumulation of peat, a dense, organic soil formed from the decomposition of dead plant material. Fens differ from bogs in that they receive a steady flow of water and have a higher PH, which supports the growth of more diverse plant species. Fens are important because they support a wide array of biodiversity, store significant amounts of carbon, and regulate water flows and quality.

According to an on-site kiosk: “At this fen, peat is mostly 4 to 6 feet deep and is accumulating at a rate of less than one inch per 100 years. These are very fragile ecosystems that take a very long time to recover when disturbed.”

Ryan Ranch Meadow / ~ mile 71.5

Ryan Ranch Meadow

“Ryan Ranch is a historic slough floodplain of the Deschutes River that has been drained and isolated from the river for over 90 years. The area was used historically by Native Americans and more recently as pasture after being homesteaded in the late 1900’s. The Forest Service acquired Ryan Ranch in 1946 and continued grazing on site as part of a federal grazing allotment until 1989. The full ecological potential of the slough, including historic habitat for the Oregon spotted frog, has been limited by a berm that prevents the river from inundating the floodplain on a regular basis. Reconnecting the river with Ryan Ranch will benefit a wide range of terrestrial and aquatic species, including migratory and nesting waterfowl, amphibians and ungulates.” [Forest Service]

Shevlin-Hixon Haul Road / ~ miles 72 to 75

Shevlin Hixon Mill, west bank of Deschutes River

These miles follow along the old haul road, a historic railroad logging route that was used to transport logged trees to the Brooks-Scanlon and Shevlin-Hixon mills, located along the Deschutes River near the Old Mill shopping area today. The rail lines were used in place of the river on this segment due to the number of cascades and falls. Picture – Shevlin-Hixon Mill on the west bank of the river. [Old Mill District]

Ride Details

When We Like to Ride This

Weekdays versus weekends due to traffic. Mid to late June (in a typical year), after the snow melts out, but before the road beyond Todd Lake (NF 370) is opened to motorized use, about August 1. The route will continue to ride up until the first snows of fall. For more information, contact the Bend-Ft. Rock Ranger District at 541-383-5300.

Terrain & Riding

Miles 0 to 10 are a mix of paved roads, gravel roads, and red cinder roads. This sector is mostly forested riding with a mix of young and mature forests. The grades and inclines are not much more than 4 to 6%. Much of this area has been “restored” to healthy forest habitat through the West Bend Project.

At mile 10, you begin a 17-mile dirt road adventure through the high country, with big views and a creek crossing or two. There is also a bit of gnar that requires good bike handling skills. This section is the crux of the ride.

Miles 27 to 45 are on the “backside” of Mt Bachelor. Initially, the road descends quickly at 6% to Sparks Lake; thereafter, it rolls and undulates until you return to gravel at mile 45. This sector has big, gorgeous views of South Sister, Mt Bachelor, and several high-alpine lakes. It also passes by the headwaters of the Deschutes River (the same river in downtown Bend) that flow out of Little Lava Lake at ~ mile 42.

Miles 45 to 62 are classic Deschutes National Forest with pockets of bigger, red, older ponderosa trees. You also traverse through some stands of young sapling trees. For the most part, the roads are proper gravel roads and/or red cinder roads. The grades and inclines are not much more than 4 to 6%.

At mile 62, it gets a bit more technical again with a mix of primitive dirt roads and double-track. You are descending an unfrequented climbing route (Tylers uphill) used by mountain bikers. But use caution. We like this sector for the challenge, but some may not.

Miles 69 to 76 finish strong. Less technical but has a whole lot of beauty. Part of it is single-track along the Deschutes River (really scenic!), and part of it is on the old Shevlin-Hixon haul road that was used to bring lumber to the mills in Bend (where the Old Mill District is today).

The Start

Lat / Long: 43.99818, -121.40626

Cascade Lakes Welcome Station (Deschutes National Forest). Pit toilets. No parking permit required.

Food & Water

  • ~ Mile 36 / Elk Lake Resort
  • ~ Mile 42: Lava Lake Resort (Slight detour required)
Notes & Options

Route Notes

  1. There are several sections of the route that use shared trail with walkers/hikers, from mile 70 and beyond. Remember, bikes give way to all other users. If coming up from behind a group, announce your presence and ask for a moment to pass. If meeting directly, yield by stopping and putting a foot down. Do not ride off the trail to make way! This increases trail width and ultimately increases trail erosion during heavy rains and spring snow melt, requiring additional maintenance.

  2. Miles 27 to 45 are on paved road that can see significant summer recreational traffic, especially on a weekend. We strongly recommend a red blinky light with rear looking radar-detector like a Garmin Varia.

  3. We made a major revision (v2.0) to this route in October of 2022, miles 58 to finish.

Comments

Have you ridden this route? Got a question? Join the discussion!

Love Where You Ride! Learn More

Broken TopYou are riding through an area whose geology has both incredible history and incredible power, too. During the Pleistocene, Broken Top and its surroundings were almost entirely covered by glaciers. When the glaciers retreated, water filled the spaces left behind, creating lakes. These lakes, which are called “moraine-dammed lakes,” are more common in the Three Sisters Wilderness than anywhere else in the Lower 48 States.

Failure of moraine-dammed lakes can cause significant hazards from lahars, which are rapid flows of water, rock, and mud. On October 7, 1966, a flash flood took place at Broken Top. The event was likely triggered by glacial ice that fell into the lake and caused a large wave that breached the moraine and cascaded down the mountainside. Over the past century, at least five lahars have occurred at the Three Sisters and Broken Top due to the failure of moraine-dammed lakes or glacier-outburst flooding. [Wikipedia]

Below we have included a short video about glacial lake outburst floods. Though the video specifically discusses glacial lakes in the Swiss Alps, the same glaciology applies in the Cascades.

Videos

Glacial Lake Outburst Floods

A 4-minute video describing what glacial lake outburst floods look like.

Be Informed!

West Bend Project - Mowing

West Bend Project

“What is going on? All these trees have been cut!” This is the initial reaction many of us have to the tree thinning occurring just west of Bend. But … take a minute to get informed.

Read More »

Keep it Local! Learn More

Elk Lake Resort

Keep it Local!

For more than 100 years, the Elk Lake Resort has offered year-round recreational opportunities. Consider giving patronage to the resort by stopping by for a cold beverage or a tasty snack.

Ridden and Reviewed by:

KevinE

KevinE / Team Dirty Freehub

He should have “Never Stop Exploring” tattooed on his chest! He loves adventures on bikes and is a Co-Founder of Dirty Freehub.

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