Dirty Freehub
Favorites Sign In Search
  • Search
  • Donate
  • Gravel Routes
    • Explore by Region
    • Explore by Type
    • Explore by Collection
  • All Access®
  • Stories
    • Bike Life
    • Culture & History
      • Central Oregon
      • NE Oregon
      • Bend Trails
      • Death Valley
    • People & Places
    • Lands
      • Arizona
      • Central Oregon
      • NE Oregon
    • Love Where You Ride
  • Events
  • User Guide
    • Route Types
    • How We Rate Routes
    • Using the Map
    • Loading a GPX File
    • Glossary
    • FAQs
  • Inside DF
    • The Team
    • Our Missions
    • Impact Reports
    • Press
    • Sponsors
  • Store
    • Gravel Guides
    • Merch
  • Donate
  • Cart
  • Sign In
  • Favorites

Shirk Ranch

All Access Route / ~ Lakeview, Oregon / Published: Feb 2025 / Updated: Apr 2025 / Directions
Save to Favorites Remove from Favorites
Riding gravel in the high desert.
Leading out! / September 2024
Rabbitbrush plant.
Old ranch homestead in sagebrush steppe.
The old ranch homestead at ~ mile 2.
Water troughs for cattle.
Water for the cattle.
Riding a gravel bike in Guano Valley in Oregon.
Cows grazing with mountain backdrop.
Gravel cyclist on dirt road with mud puddle.
Cyclist riding dirt road with small rock rim to right.
Snake
Non-poisonous!
Open road leading to Shirk Ranch.
Nearing the Shirk Ranch.
Shirk Ranch gate and sign.
Notice of public use.
Old ranch building.
Whiskey bottle in window of old ranch building.
Looking through window of old ranch building.
Inside Shirk Ranch homestead.
Water tower at Shirk Ranch.
Shirk Ranch from back door side.
Shirk Ranch from front.
Gravel Girl riding dirt road in Guano Valley.
The return.
Hart-Sheldon corridor with dirt road and rabbitbrush.
Cyclist at ranch gate.
The gate leading to the early homestead.
Old homestead in distance.
Access is allowed.
Riding south on dirt road in high desert of Oregon.
Nearing the finish.
Van parked on dirt road near Adel, Oregon.
The parking area.
*
Route:
Out & Back | 24 mi
*
Gain:
250 ft
*
Surface:
100% gravel
*
Technical Difficulty:
Easier
*
Max Gradient:
+2% / -2%
*
Sustained Gradient:
0.44% over ~ 0.8 mile
*
Climb Ratio:
0.1
*
Effort:
1 (out of 5)
*
Navigation:
Straightforward
*
Locale:
Extremely Remote
*
Tire Suggestion:
40 mm+
*
Options:
Longer

This adventure begins long before you begin to push the pedals. Driving to the ride start from Lakeview offers up several unique points of interest (all documented below): drive-by art sculptures, mountain peaks, gorgeous wetlands, and more. But the true highlight of the day awaits 12 miles down a desolate dirt road: the historic Shirk Creek Ranch.

Shirk Ranch
The Shirk Ranch property was originally homesteaded by R.A. Turner around 1881 and then sold to William Herron. Shirk bought the ranch from Herron in 1883. When Shirk purchased the land, there were three buildings on the property: a house and two sheds. There is no record of the property size when Shirk bought it, but county tax records show the ranch was 480 acres in 1887.

Shirk Ranch gate

Shirk was a well-known cattleman. In 1869, he assisted with the first drive of Texas cattle to Oregon and reportedly held up to 50,000 acres of Oregon rangeland. But this ranch in Guano Valley was different. It wasn’t a cattle ranch.

Shirk purchased the Guano Valley site as a horse ranch and wrote that he “at once began improving the property to accommodate a large number of horses and mules.”

“These I raised myself, shipped to market, . . . and sold them,” he wrote, “and in this I did fairly well.”

Horse raising was a key industry well into the twentieth century, before the automobile and mechanized farm machinery were widely available. Demand was high. Oregon horses raised by stockmen like Shirk even ended up at war on two foreign continents, supporting military actions in South Africa’s Boer War and, later, World War I in Europe.

Family was essential to Shirk’s ranch operations. “I and my family, including my wife and children, were almost constantly in the saddle, doing our work and lessening expenses,” he wrote.

Shirk also relied on the help of ranch hands. “I endeavored to secure as employees the better class of young men,” he wrote. “I had constructed an elegant country home, and all were treated as equals. They ate their meals with me and my family, and in other respects were treated as equals.”

Today, after more than a century, the site’s main house today offers clues to Shirk’s egalitarian vision. This building’s second floor features a large, rectangular room that probably held, of all things, a billiard room.

“Upstairs,” Shirk wrote, “I fitted up a billiard room, placing therein a modern billiard table for their amusement during times of idleness and the long winter nights. I had a two-fold purpose in this. First, because I believe that every man is as good as any other man, provided he is honest, industrious and conducts himself as a self-respecting man, and also, because I sought by this means and by such methods to secure contentment and steadiness on the part of the men in my employ.”

In 1914, Shirk sold the Guano Valley Ranch to the partnership of Mitchell and McDaniel of Cedarville, California. Shirk’s daughter, Olive, known as one of the best “horsemen” in the area and a “tough ranch lady,” leased the Shirk Ranch with her husband, Zetus Spaulding, from the Bank of Willows, California, which had acquired it in foreclosure from the Mitchell and McDaniel Partnership. The ranch became part of the Hart Mountain National Wildlife Refuge in 1942. Shirk’s daughter and husband lived and worked on the ranch until Zetus death in 1945. The ranch was leased to various interests through the 1980s but has been vacant since that time. The ranch is now administered by the Bureau of Land Management.

In 2009, the ranch was entered into the National Register of Historic Places in recognition of its national significance. Today, the BLM administers it for public access, keeping it open for intrepid visitors interested in exploring Oregon’s ranching past beyond a drive-by, windshield tour.

Click here for a full multimedia tour of the ranch.

[Ref: Bureau of Land Management]

The reasons to do this ride are to:
– see the historic ranch
– compare and contrast the desert scape that has been grazed and ungrazed by cattle
– view the striking Dougherty Slide
– and experience the open expanse of the high desert.

Note that this is the most remote All Access ride we have documented. You may see no one and there is no cell phone reception. However, the navigation is straightforward and the road driveable by most vehicles.

Read More
Map
Brown = gravel / dirt road
Blue = single track
Red = paved road
Purple = paved bike path
GPX Download   Version 1.0

Highlights & Remarkable Spots

You’ll pass the first five points of interest (POIs) while driving from Lakeview to the starting point of the ride. To help you locate them, we’ve noted their distances from the intersection of Highways 395 and 140—roughly downtown Lakeview.

Click on the map at left to expand view.

Crane Creek Ranch Art / ~ Miles 18, 24, & 34.5 from Lakeview

Crane Creek Art Work

As you head from Lakeview to the start of the ride, keep an eye to the right side of the road—you’ll see several sculptures along the way.

From west to east, there are at least three pieces: Stagecoach, Cowboy Leaning on Horse, and Bucking Horse.

{Marie – does she have info on this?}

Adel / ~ Mile 32.5 from Lakeview

Adel Store

Euro-American settlement of Adel began in the late 1800s, centered around sheep grazing and small cattle ranches. Irish Catholic immigrants worked as shepherds, leaving behind a legacy seen in local surnames and historic churches. A stagecoach line once connected Adel to Fort Bidwell, California, offering service three times a week. The Adel post office was established in 1896. Its name may have come from a landowner’s former sweetheart or a local cow named Leda—spelled backward.

Today, Adel is little more than a one-building ghost town. [Ref: Wikipedia]

Warner Wetlands / ~ Mile 37.5 from Lakeview

Warner Wetlands

Here you pass the southern edge of the Warner Wetlands, a seasonal chain of lakes, marshes, and meadows located in the Warner Valley. These wetlands form when snowmelt and rainfall fill a series of interconnected basins in the spring, creating temporary lakes and marshes. As the seasons shift into summer and fall, the water recedes or dries up, leaving behind dry basins or meadows. Because the valley is a closed basin with no outlet to the ocean, water levels vary greatly depending on the year’s precipitation and evaporation rates.

Barry Ranch / ~ Mile 1.8 of ride

Old Homestead

From DonnaR. “My father owned that land and ran cattle there, as well as at the Shirk Place (as we called it) and up through Post Meadows to the Flook Ranch on Hart Mountain. By the time he sold it, the land had been in our family for three generations—his father and grandfather had come from New Market, County Cork, Ireland.

Some of my favorite childhood memories are from the Barry Ranch and the Shirk Place. Since our mother was an artist, we had the only outhouse around with a beautiful oil painting hanging on the inside wall!”

Shirk Ranch / ~ Mile 12 of ride

Shirk Ranch. Lake county, Oregon

This property was originally homesteaded during the initial settlement of Lake County in the early 1880s by the Hill family.

David L. Shirk purchased the property in 1883 and built most of the ranch’s extant buildings and structures around 1910. A cattleman by trade, Shirk’s main business at the ranch was said to be horses, and he had a reputation for the “finest horseflesh” in the whole county. Horse raising was a key industry well into the twentieth century before the automobile and mechanized farm machinery were widely available. Early stock was taken from the herds of wild horses that originated from loose animals left by the Spanish. [Ref: Bureau of Land Management]

Grave Site Marker / ~ Mile 12 of ride

Shirk Ranch - Bill Vickers Grave

About 500 feet northwest of the main house, a grave marker sits on a knoll overlooking the valley and ranch. The headstone reads: “Here lies Bill Vickers and J. Gruenke, Shot August 14, 1887.” The exact circumstances of their deaths are unclear. According to local folklore, Vickers was a fugitive murderer joined by Gruenke. They ended up at Shirk’s ranch, where trouble followed. One version of the story claims Shirk returned to find them harassing his wife and killed them during the confrontation, later burying them on the hill.

Giant Sagebrush / ~ mile 12 of ride

Tall Sagebrush

If you continue riding the dirt road just a bit north of the ranch, you’ll come across an area where the sagebrush stands impressively tall—around 4 to 5 feet. It’s a striking contrast to the shorter sagebrush seen along the route into the Shirk Ranch.

One possible explanation is that cattle are not allowed to open graze north of the ranch, which may have allowed the sagebrush to grow taller. That’s our hypothesis, though it’s not confirmed.

That said, cattle grazing isn’t always harmful to sagebrush. When managed properly, it can coexist with healthy sagebrush ecosystems. Learn more

Doherty Slide / ~ mile x of ride

Doherty Slide

Doherty Slide is a steep escarpment marking the western edge of Warner Valley. It rises about 1,000 feet (300 meters) above the valley floor, offering wide views of the surrounding high desert, including the Warner Wetlands and distant volcanic peaks. The ridge was originally formed by lava flows and has since been shaped by erosion, creating the dramatic rim seen today. Despite its name, “Slide” does not refer to an actual landslide. Instead, the term likely comes from the slide-like appearance of the rocky slope or early misconceptions about its geological origin.

Doherty Slide

Doherty Slide is one of Oregon’s most dramatic and challenging drives. This stretch climbs approximately three miles with an 8% grade and no guardrails, featuring sharp drop-offs. Doherty Slide is one of Oregon’s highest drivable mountain passes, with an elevation of 6,240 feet.

Doherty Slide is a world-renowned launch site for hang gliding and paragliding. The consistent updrafts created by the cliff face make it an ideal spot for soaring—especially in summer months.

Credits & Acknowledgements

Travel Oregon Logo

This ride guide is funded in part by grant from Travel Oregon.

Ride Details

When We Like to Ride This

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Not Rideable
Possibly Rideable
Rideable

This is a stunning ride—especially at sunrise or sunset—with wide-open views and a real sense of solitude. That said, it’s very exposed to sun and wind, so plan accordingly. Avoid riding when the route is wet or muddy, as conditions can quickly become difficult.

We wouldn’t ride it all the time, but it’s a perfect once-a-season adventure—ideal in spring or fall. If you’re passing through the area, it’s absolutely worth making this a stopover ride.

Terrain & Riding

The Terrain
The terrain is part of one of the largest remaining intact sagebrush ecosystems in North America. It’s remote and wild. It is classic sagebrush-steppe country, where the land is covered in a patchwork of big sagebrush, bunchgrasses, and rabbitbrush, with juniper trees appearing now and then. Subtle changes in vegetation reflect shifts in soil, elevation, and moisture across the landscape.

The Riding
The route follows a hard-packed dirt BLM road through the Guano Valley at an elevation of about 5,100 feet. To your right, in the distance is the Guano Rim rising a 1000 feet above the valley.

The first four miles are wide open and expansive. After that, the road tucks in along the base of a low western ridge, providing a more intimate feel as you ride toward the ranch.

Although the route may appear completely straight on the map, it subtly twists and turns, limiting long sightlines and keeping the ride visually engaging. It’s dead flat—but far from boring!

The Start

Lat / Long: 42.066990, -119.533758

Just at the start, make the turn onto the BLM dirt road and park in a pullout to the left.

Food & Water

  • None
Notes & Options

Route Notes

  1. This is a very remote route. While the risk is lower since it’s an out-and-back and accessible by most vehicles, it’s still important to go prepared.

  2. We do not recommend entering the buildings at Shirk Ranch. It is best to look from outside.

  3. You may come across free-ranging cattle along the route. Check out our Tips and Tricks page for advice on how to handle these encounters—hint: whooping and hollering is not the right thing to do!

Route Options

Longer
If you’re looking for a longer ride that takes you into Shirk Ranch, check out the Guano Creek route (50 miles, 2000 feet of elevation gain). This is a Dirty Freehub Development route that starts in the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge.

Comments

Have you ridden this route? Got a question? Join the discussion!

Love Where You Ride! Learn More

Pronghorn Migration CorridorToday, you’re riding through a section of the migration corridor that connects Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge in Oregon to Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge in Nevada. This is one of the longest and most important pronghorn migration routes in the western U.S.—and one of the few long-distance ungulate migrations that remains mostly intact. (Click on map to right for larger view).

Distance: The migration corridor spans about 100–150 miles.

Seasonality: Pronghorn typically migrate seasonally, moving between higher-elevation summer ranges (Hart Mountain) and lower-elevation winter ranges (Sheldon).

Habitat: The route traverses a mix of sagebrush steppe, open desert, and mountain terrain—prime habitat for pronghorn, which rely on vast, open spaces for visibility and speed to avoid predators.

Videos

The Ride! Shirk Ranch

A quick 2+ minute video of what to expect on your ride.

The Story of Shirk Ranch

In this 2-minute video, explore the history of Shirk Ranch, home to David Shirk and his family in the early 1880s. Shirk Ranch was part of a border movement of ranchers and settlers into southeast Oregon, shaping ranching life that persists today. The ranch illuminates how early settlers to [...]

The Greater Hart-Sheldon Wildlife Corridor

In this 3-minute video, discover the beauty and importance of this remote sagebrush-steppe ecosystem—a unique landscape that supports pronghorn, sage-grouse, mule deer, golden eagles, and more. There’s nothing else like it in the world!

Be Informed!

Cows in the road

Cows!

This route crosses through open grazing lands where you may encounter cows and cattle. Learn how to handle this situation the right way. Whooping and hollering are not it!!

Read More »

Keep it Local! Learn More

Hot springs at Neon Cowboy

Visit Lakeview

This authentic and gritty town has withstood the test of time. While you won’t find New York City-style cuisine and flair here, you’ll encounter hardworking locals with a strong sense of community and authentic food.

Tall Town Café and Bakery serves up traditional American breakfast and lunhes until mid-afternoon most days. .

Nuevo Sabor, a Mexican food cart, serves up Mexican deserts like homemade donuts and flan, as well as authentic Mexican food and even burgers! They’re open daily until 7pm and centrally located in Lakeview, OR.

Looking for a place to stay for the night? Neon Cowboy is one of our favorites. They are still going through a major remodel and upgrade, but the rooms are nice and the bar/restaurant is a lot of fun. They also have natural hot springs. So, so good!

Related Guidebooks

  • All Access Gravel Guide Eastern Oregon (Collector’s Edition!)

    $12.50
    Now shipping! A 64-page pocket-sized gravel guide. Featuring gravel routes, art, culture and local history. A one of a kind…
    Add to cart
  • All Access Gravel Guide Western Oregon (Collector’s Edition!)

    $12.50
    Now shipping! A 64-page pocket-sized gravel guide. Featuring gravel routes, art, culture and local history. A one of a kind…
    Add to cart

Ridden and Reviewed by:

LindaE (aka Gravel Girl)

LindaE (aka Gravel Girl) / Team Dirty Freehub

She loves a good day of gravel, like most people like a good book. She’s always amused by the outdoors and the wild adventures. Gravel Girl is a Co-Founder of Dirty Freehub.

KevinE

KevinE / Team Dirty Freehub

He should have “Never Stop Exploring” tattooed on his chest! He loves adventures on bikes and is a Co-Founder of Dirty Freehub.

Explore Similar Routes:

Ghosts pioneers

Sign Up for the Dirty Freehub Newsletter

info@DirtyFreehub.org
Terms of Service Privacy EEO Policy Our Values
Dirty Freehub is 501(c)3 non-profit organization.
©2025 Dirty Freehub :: All Rights Reserved :: Website Design
Cleantalk Pixel

We Need Your Support!

Dirty Freehub is a 501(c)3 nonprofit funded by generous donations from riders like you!

  • $25 Keeps the lights on (web hosting, technology tools, insurance, etc.)
  • $50 Keeps lights on + up to date route conditions
  • $100 Continued route development
  • $200 Fully documented route guide
  • $200+ Gravel Girl giggle of gratitude

Donate Today