Ft Bidwell
Highlights & Remarkable Spots
The Adel Store / Start
Constructed in 1897 by A.J. Monroe as a general store and maintained as such by various owners including James and Marie Dyke and Nolan and Lois Griener 1954 – 1978. It served as many years at the local post office and saddlery.
Some say an area rancher named the Adel post office in 1896 after a former sweetheart. Another version says it was named after a local cow named Leda, with the spelling L-E-D-A reversed. The authoritative book titled Oregon Geographic Names comments, “Since the spelling was reversed, one can only assume the compliment was back-handed.” [Jefferson Public Radio]
Warner Wetlands / ~ Miles 0-7
The initial stretch of this ride borders the Warner Wetlands. These wetlands were formed thousands of years ago when the earth’s crust shifted, creating a 40-mile chain of lakes separated by dunes. The wetlands are temporarily home to thousands of birds during their migration in spring and fall, making it an excellent region for bird watching, among other recreational opportunities like camping, hunting, fishing and boating, depending on the water levels of the lakes.
St Richard Catholic Church / ~ Mile 2
St. Richard Catholic Church, a beautiful brick building just south of Adel, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Catholic community in the region. Irish immigrants, who came to work as shepherds in the late 1800s, played a vital role in shaping the area’s cultural and religious landscape. As they settled in Adel, their faith and traditions took root, leaving behind not only their surnames but also churches like St. Richard’s. [Wikipedia]
Twenty Mile Creek Fish Passage / ~ Mile 9
Warner Sucker and Warner Lakes Redband Trout, fish species native to Oregon, are identified as federally threatened and species of concern. A concrete fish ladder with a cobble bed was designed and built here on Twenty Mile Creek to simulate a natural channel for these fish to pass. Since 2017 thirty three miles of fish habitat have been restored in Warner Basin with fish passage projects.
Surprise Valley / ~ Mile 28
The road returns to pavement as you enter scenic Surprise Valley, California.
The valley, which is approximately seventy miles long, is ringed by the Warner Mountain Range in California and Oregon and the Hayes Mountain Range of Nevada. Cattle ranching and alfalfa hay production are the primary economic drivers here and cattle drives still occur on the valley’s roads.
Fort Bidwell / ~ Mile 33.5
Fort Bidwell, located in northeastern California near the Oregon border, was established in 1863 as a military post during the Modoc War. The fort was part of a broader U.S. government effort to subjugate Native American tribes in the region, particularly the Modoc people who resisted forced relocation to reservations. The fort was named after Bidwell’s Bar, a location along a stagecoach route.
The fort was primarily a base for military operations to oversee the Modoc and other Native American groups. It was active for only a short period, decommissioned in 1870, and later abandoned. Today, the site is part of a small rural community and serves as a historical reminder of the area’s military and Native American history. The nearby Modoc National Forest and other landmarks preserve remnants of its past.
Fort Bidwell Indian Boarding School / ~ Mile 33.5
In 2024 President Joe Biden officially apologized on behalf of the federal government for one of the “most horrific chapters in American history that most Americans don’t even know about.” He was talking about the more than 400 federal Indian boarding schools the United States operated from 1819 to 1969. These schools were used to pursue forced assimilation of children who were taken from their families. More than 3,100 children died while at these schools including 13 at Fort Bidwell Indian Boarding School.
Fort Bidwell Indian Boarding school operated from 1898 to 1932. The stone schoolhouse, which was erected in 1917, still stands at the end of Main Street. Taking the opportunity to read about this lamentable portion of US history and then stopping at the site of one of the schools is very impactful.
Mt Vida Vista / ~ Mile 40.5
8,224 foot Mount Vida lies to the southwest of Mount Bidwell. It is one of the highest peaks in the Warner Mountains.
The Warner Mountains are composed of volcanic rock but were not created by volcanoes. The lava flows were laid down in successive layers and then pushed up by faulting action. The lava layers can be best seen on the west side of Mount Bidwell and are visible on this ride.
Mount Vida Vista viewpoint is a large pullout off of the road. It is a good place to take a break.
Dismal Swamp / ~ Mile 45
Sheepherders, mostly of Basque decent, practiced a form of livestock management called transhumance where they moved their flock through climatic regions with the change of the seasons. This meant they spent their summers alone at elevation.
In the western United States these sheepherders carved their thoughts, dreams and memories into living aspen trees. Dismal Swamp is one of the locations you can find these arborglyphs.
Credits & Acknowledgements
This route is funded in part by Travel Southern Oregon.
When We Like to Ride This
Early summer through fall. Note, the route tops out at 7600 feet, check snow levels before riding.
Terrain & Riding
Twentymile Road Sector / Mile 0 to 13
- Using the start as documented you roll on good pavement past open farmland to the east.
- At approximately mile 7 the road turns to good gravel.
- The first climb of the route begins at mile 10.5. It averages 5.5% over 0.7 miles and has a max gradient of 14%.
- The second climb on the stick of the lollipop commences at approximately mile 12. It ascends 800 feet over 3 miles at an average grade of 5% and has a max grade of 11%
Surprise Valley Road Sector (Start of Loop) / Mile 13 to 33
- At ~ mile 13 you start the lollipop portion of the route. If you would like to shorten the route there is parking at a dirt pullout here. Refer to Notes and Options for further information.
- Continue south on good gravel (now County Highway 3-14)
- At ~ mile 17 you cross the Oregon / California stateline and the road becomes Surprise Valley Road. For much of this stretch Mount Bidwell, which the route rides up and around, is visible to the west.
- At ~ mile 28 the road returns to pavement and beautiful Surprise Valley opens up before you with Mount Vida visible to the south.
- ~ Mile 33 you roll into historic Fort Bidwell
Mount Bidwell Ascent Sector / ~ Miles 33 to 60
- Leaving Fort Bidwell you begin the 10.5 mile ascent up the west side of Mount Bidwell. The gravel is initially loose but quickly improves. As you power up the initial grade, take time to look to the east and the open views of Surprise Valley below you.
- The climb averages a manageable 5.5% and the steepest grade, which comes near the top, is 10%. This last pitch is also the chunkiest of the climb.
- At ~ mile 40.5 Mount Vida Vista is on the left. The view is worth stopping for and the large pullout is a good place to stretch your legs.
- At ~ mile 42 Mount Bidwell’s west flank comes into view and the lava layers from repeated eruptions, pushed up by faulting action, are visible displaying the geology of the Warner Mountains.
- At ~ 43.5 you’ve reached the summit of the climb! Follow signs for a right turn to Dismal Swamp.
- The route does not immediately pitch down but instead rolls over gravel roads of varying quality for the next seven miles through forests and open views back into Oregon.
- At ~ mile 58 you begin the fast, fun descent back to Twentymile Road.
Twentymile Road to Adel Sector / ~ Miles 60 to 73
- The first portion of the return sector is ~ 6 miles of good gravel with two descents.
- The road returns to pavement for approximately the last 7 miles of your ride back into Adel.
The Start
Dirt parking area at the intersection of Warner Highway and Twenty-Mile Rd in Adel, Oregon.
Food & Water
- ~ Mile 33 / Fort Bidwell Hotel and Restaurant (sit down dining)
Route Notes
We recommend a red, blinking light like a Garmin Varia for this route. Much of the route cuts through active farmland and Mount Bidwell has active mining claims on it so light traffic is possible.
We also recommend a satellite communicator such as a Garmin inReach or a phone with satellite features. The road up and around Mount Bidwell is remote.
Route Options
Shorter Options
This route is a lollipop. It can be shortened by eliminating the stick portion of the ride. The major climb of the day can also be eliminated by riding the route as an out and back to Fort Bidwell.
- Mount Bidwell Loop
- 46 miles, 3,303 feet of climbing with 90% gravel and 10% pavement.
- It can be ridden in either direction but we recommend clockwise based on the route profile.
- The route starts at the dirt pullout at approximately mile 13. On Google Maps this is at the intersection of County Highway 3-14 and Big Valley Road 42.024404, -119.997218
- Fort Bidwell Out and Back
- 40 miles, ~ 1,200 feet of climbing with 80% gravel and 20% pavement.
- The route starts at the dirt pullout at approximately mile 13. On Google Maps this is at the intersection of County Highway 3-14 and Big Valley Road 42.024404, -119.997218
Credit Card Tour Option
- Ride the route as mapped and documented. In Fort Bidwell (~mile 33) stay at Fort Bidwell Hotel.
Videos
The Ride! Ft Bidwell
A quick 2+ minute video of what to expect on your ride.
The Modoc War
The Modoc War was one of the most dramatic American Indian wars in U.S. history. The Modoc are a Native American people who originally resided in the area which is now northeastern California and central Southern Oregon. The Modoc War began in November 1872 when the military tried to force [...]
Historic Ft Bidwell
A quick 2-minute video by Sidetrack Adventures talking about the places and history of Ft Bidwell.
Be Informed!
Keep it Local! Learn More
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