Dark Skies
Highlights & Remarkable Spots
Great Basin / Miles 1-30
The Dark Skies route is at the northern edge of the Great Basin, a 209,162-square-mile area that once drained internally. This means that rivers, streams, and creeks found no outlet to either the Pacific Ocean or the Gulf of Mexico; all precipitation in the region evaporated, sank underground, or flowed into lakes. With the construction of the Los Angeles Aqueduct, which broke ground in 1908, large amounts of water were diverted outside of the area, forever altering the landscape. [Wikipedia]
Millican Valley / ~ Miles 1-5 and 24-30
Millican’s history began in the 1880s when George Millican founded a ranch 25 miles east of Bend. Soon after, a small township bearing his name emerged, and by 1913, it became an official town with its own post office. With the construction of US Hwy 20 in the 1930s, most of the town’s population moved out in search of a better life, leaving only one man, Billy Rahn, to run the post office until it closed in 1942. After World War II, a businessman named Bill Mellin bought and ran the old gas station, store, and post office, but he was later murdered by his only employee. Since then, several families and businesses have bought and sold the town, none keeping the land for long. Millican is now a ghost town with no inhabitants. [Oregon Secretary of State]
Pine Mountain Observatory / ~ Mile 16.5
“Pine Mountain Observatory, located 34 miles southeast of Bend, is perched atop a mountain at an elevation of 6,300 feet. The observatory’s location is well placed to make the most of the dark skies that the Eastern Oregon high desert provides.
The observatory is operated by the University of Oregon Department of Physics under a special use permit from the Deschutes National Forest. The observatory’s primary function is research and other astronomical observations, including basic and advanced scientific research. However education at all levels is also an important function and objective of the observatory.” [Pine Mountain Observatory]
Photo Credit: Grant Tandy
Fecker Telescope / ~ Mile 16.5
The Fecker 15″ Cassegrain telescope is known as “The Matriarch of the Mountain” due to its long and important history in the development of the observatory. Back in 1950, the University of Oregon bought the telescope and placed it on top of a building in Eugene. In 1961, Dr. E.G. Ebenhausen took the telescope up to Cache Mountain to study the atmosphere. Views were subpar, and so in search of drier weather and clearer skies, he moved the telescope to Pine Mountain. And thus the observatory was born! The Fecker got its own dome in 1968 and was a high performer until the 90s when it fell into disrepair. In 2012, a volunteer named Alton Luken found the telescope tucked behind some insulation and spent three years restoring it. Since 2015, the Fecker has been used to help University of Oregon physics students develop their communication skills and teach the public about the universe. [Wikipedia]
Photo Credit: University of Oregon
Boller & Chivens Telescope / ~ Mile 16.5
The Boller & Chivens 24″ dome was the very first building constructed at the Pine Mountain Observatory. It was completed in summer 1967, after getting a special use permit from the Deschutes National Forest. In August of that same year, the telescope was installed, and the grand opening of observatory was held on September 17, 1967. That was a big night because it was also the first time the telescope saw its first light. This telescope was a big deal back in the 70s and 80s, doing cutting-edge astronomy research such as discovering magnetars in 1970. Even today, it’s still one of the most important telescopes at the observatory as it is used for all sorts of undergraduate research, technology development, and public outreach events. [Wikipedia]
Photo Credit: Grant Tandy
Planewave Telescope / ~ Mile 16.5
The Planewave 14″ Corrected Dall-Kirkham, also known as “the Robbins,” is the newest telescope at the Pine Mountain Observatory. Construction started in 2015 and after two summer seasons of commissioning, the telescope was finally ready for observations in Fall 2018. This telescope is unlike any others at the observatory because it uses a camera system instead of the traditional eyepiece. Plus, it can be operated remotely from the University of Oregon campus or other institutions near or far. Even though it’s smaller than the other telescopes at the observatory, it’s one of the most powerful instruments because of its top-of-the-line optics, electronics, and camera system. [Wikipedia]
Photo Credit: University of Oregon
Ponderosa Forest / ~ Miles 18 to 22
Along this sector is a beautiful, healthy Ponderosa Forest. Do you know this about Ponderosa Pines and fire? (1) They have exceptionally thick bark, which acts as a protective shield for the tree’s sensitive cambium layer, which is essential for nutrient transport and growth. (2) They have resin ducts that produce a sticky, resinous substance that during a firee melts and flows down the trunk, creating a fire-resistant barrier that shields the tree from the heat and flames. (3) They self-prune their lower branches as they grow, leaving fewer branches close to the ground. This reduces the “ladder fuel” that can carry ground fires into the tree’s crown.(4) They can resprout from the cambium layer beneath the fire damaged bark can quickly regenerate, often with multiple trunks growing from a single base.
When We Like to Ride This
Late spring, just after the snow has melted, or fall when there is moisture being sucked into the ground with freeze-thaw cycles. The route needs moisture in the ground to be good. The riding season usually begins in mid-April and goes through late-November, when the first snows arrive. Summer is mostly a no-go due to sections of deep sand.
Terrain & Riding
Miles 0 to 4 / Paved
Leave the parking area heading south on a good paved road with little traffic. The route starts flat and then starts to pitch up slightly in several miles. These initial miles are part of the Millican Valley. Pine Mountain (elevation 6300 feet) will be to your left .
Miles 4 to 12 / Gravel
At mile 4, take the red cinder road that veers off to the left. Continue to climb gradually until mile 7. The road surface will vary between red cinder and gray gravel. It will be washboarded / corrugated in some areas, but there is typically a good riding line to be found. Miles 7 to 12 are flat but continue to bring you to the south side of Pine Mountain. In front of you and to the left of the closest butte, Mahogany Butte, is Kotzman Basin.
Miles 12 to 16.5 / “PowerSuck” Hill / Dirt Road
At mile 12, make a 90-degree left and begin the climb to the top of Pine Mountain, a 4-mile climb averaging 6% but with several miles of sustained 7%. Sections are gnarly, sandy, and rutted. It is nearly all rideable, but requires some brute power. There is a 300-yard section of deep sand that is hike-a-bike.
Part way up the climb, the desert scrub gives way to Ponderosa forest. The last mile of the climb is quite moderate. At mile 16, there is a road to the left. This leads to a nice viewpoint.
Miles 16.5 to 24 / Pine Mountain Ridge / Gravel Road
Shortly after, the observatory buildings will be to your right. The descent down the north side of Pine Mountain is almost immediate. Overall, the road is usually in good condition, but the corners can be washboarded. Partway down the descent (~ 2 miles), the route goes right onto a forest service road. (If you are doing this route as an evening / night ride, do not turn right onto the forest service road. Instead, stay on the main gravel road, and you will reconnect with the route in 2.8 miles.)
This leg of the route brings you onto Pine Mountain ridge. You will climb again, about 500 feet. At the summit, there is the road to the left leading to a very scenic viewpoint. The distance is short, and the view is well worth it. Continue along and descend through the Ponderosa forests re-connecting with the main gravel road.
Miles 24 to End / Dirt Roads leading to Gravel Roads
Go approximately 1.25 miles, and just after a makeshift camping area to the left, there is a worn in dirt road. It is very easy to miss. Take it. The start is rocky and dirt; the further along you go, the better the road gets, until eventually it gives way to a more proper gravel road. This entire sector is just over 4 miles in length.
The Start
OHV (off-highway vehicle) dirt parking lot at intersection of Ford Road and Spencer Wells road (FS 23). No services. No parking permit required.
Food & Water
- None
Route Notes
This route likes big, squishy tires. At least 45 mm+. If you have bigger, go bigger! Some even swear by 3″+ tires.
The route tops out at 6200 feet. Be ready for it to be colder and windier at the observatory. Should you wish to visit the observatory for a night viewing, know that temperatures can drop near or below freezing even in the summer.
If you visit the observatory for an evening viewing, keep in mind the etiquette about red lights and night vision. This applies to cell phones, bike lights, and other sources of light.
“In the dark, the pupils of your eyes open up to admit more light, and your retina also becomes more sensitive. This is what gives you ‘night vision’ so you can see faint objects on the ground and in the sky. If the eyes encounter a white light, the pupils close down again and may take twenty minutes or more to fully open, and for your retina to regain full sensitivity. At Pine Mountain, we are very protective of night vision. Do not operate any white lights on the hill while observing is in progress. We have red cellophane that you can affix to the front of white flashlights with rubber bands and/or tape. Gentle red light aimed down will allow you to see your way around, but will not trigger the pupil sensor.” [Pine Mountain Observatory]
There is open grazing along this route. Be sure to check out our “Be Informed!” page on how to best pass by cows (for your safety and theirs).
Route Options
Dark Skies, the night option. Riding this route at night is a super special way to see the skies. However, if you are doing this route as an evening / night ride, we recommend skipping the Pine Mountain ridge section. Click here to download the GPX route for riding Dark Skies at Night. Also, bring a good light as you will need it to find the primitive dirt road turn at mile 25.3. Trust your navigation device.
Love Where You Ride! Learn More
For an unforgettable journey through the cosmos, plan to visit the Pine Mountain Observatory. At first glance, the observatory may look like a few insignificant domes, but those domes contain the eyes to the universe. It’s best to visit the observatory when the skies are clear and ideally moonless. Aim to arrive just after sunset, as this is when the viewing festivities begin. As the sky darkens, expert guides will point state-of-the-art telescopes at various celestial objects, explaining their significance and answering any questions you may have. Whether you’re a seasoned astronomer or just looking for a unique experience, the observatory will transport you to the stars and beyond.
For an overview of the observatory and a hint at the magic you might see through the telescopes, watch the video below.
Videos
The Ride! Dark Skies
A quick 2-minute video of what to expect on your ride!
Pine Mountain Observatory: Stargazing Oregon’s Dark Sky
A 15-minute video describing the Pine Mountain Observatory and showing views that can be observed from the telescopes under dark skies.
Podcasts
Pine Mountain Observatory: Exploring the Cosmos
Welcome to Pine Mountain Observatory, nestled in the serene landscapes of Oregon about 34 miles southeast of Bend. In this episode, we unveil the highlights of the night sky with our guest, “astro monk” Alton [...]
Be Informed!
Keep it Local! Learn More
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